The 2002 INCOGNITO, so named because the winery ran afoul of regulations when it used Syrah, is a remarkable wine considering the vintage. It perhaps even benefited from some restraint that the vintage imparted. It is beautifully structured, with grip and flavor persisting on the finish. Succulent and delicious, it is quite a wine from this vintage. Drink now-2012. This winery, owned by Danish-born Hans Jorgensen and his American wife (of Portuguese ancestry), Carrie, is one of Alentejo’s stalwarts. They generally make them bold and big, although there seems to be a trend to more restraint. The first release was in 1996. Their best wine is the Reserva, generally speaking. A vertical tasting of the Reservas, including the release reviewed last year (the 2003, 92 points) showed what the winery can accomplish. These library wines may be hard to find in well stored condition, even at the winery, but they are worth noting here to show what this winery can do and how well these can age. Their wines eschew the DOC Alentejo (after having had some famous dust-ups with the DOC regulations), and use instead the broader, less restrictive classification Vinho Regional Alentejano.Importers: Tri-Vin Imports, Mt. Vernon, NY; tel. (914) 664-3155; Bibulous, San Francisco, CA; tel: (415) 378-0661; Vinum Wine Importers, Seattle, WA; tel: (206) 621-8843.