Dark ruby in color, the 2004 Pinot Noir Coastlands shows spicy oak, medium body, and hints of raspberries, damp earth, underbrush, and fresh mushrooms. The wine is pretty, with fine richness and depth and enough flesh to balance out the tart acids. Tel. (707) 433-6425; Fax (707) 433-6546

This has never been my favorite Williams Selyem Pinot, but this is Bob Cabral’s best effort to date. Part of the reason, I think, is because 2004 was a warm vintage, and those coastal grapes need heat. The wine brims with cherries, cola, black raspberries, yet maintains that luscious coastal acidity. The mouthfeel is gorgeously silky and delicate. But it’s young and immature now. Best 2007—2010. ——S.H.(3/1/2007)—— 92