The 2007 Etna Rosso Rossodiverzella is Nerello Mascalese and Nerello Cappuccio. It shows excellent density and richness at this level, although some advance aeration is required for the wine to find its focus. Dried flowers, tobacco, ash and smoke swirl around a core of dark cherries in this plump red. The aromatics are already a touch forward, which suggests the Rossodiverzella is best enjoyed sooner rather than later. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2015. This is a solid set of wines from Benanti, although there are fewer thrilling wines this year than is often the case.Importer: JA-AR Imports, Ltd., Stellar Cellars, East Brunswick, NJ; tel. (732) 762-9524

Native grapes of Mount Etna such as Nerello Mascalese and Nerello Cappuccio (at 20%) are present in this lively red wine. The wine is bright, compact and redolent of fresh berry fruit, red apple and blueberry.——M.L.(7/1/2011)—— 89