Guffens' Chablis offerings continue to enthrall me. The fabulous Chablis Montee De Tonnerre reveals mineral and earth aromas as well as a medium-to-full-bodied, highly-delineated, rich, velvety, yet crisp core of stones, flint, lemon, and note of sweet oak. Refined, highly extracted, and bright, this wine will require cellaring patience. Projected maturity: 2003-2010. A year ago, Jean-Marie Guffens told me that 1996 was the greatest vintage of his lifetime. While he did not repeat that comment when I visited him in November, Guffens was bursting with pride as I tasted the wines. A Peter Vezan Selection (Paris Fax # 011-33-1-42654293), importers include: North Berkeley Imports, Berkeley, CA; tel (510) 848-8910, and a Patrick Lesec Selection (Paris Fax # 011-33-1-44706293), various American importers, including Bacchus Importers (800) 525-9699.