The 2008 Langhe Freisa Kye is insanely beautiful. Layers of primary dark fruit burst from a big, powerful frame as the wine opens up in the glass. A complex array of menthol, tar, and spices follows, adding further dimensions of nuance and character. Everything is so beautifully delineated here. The fruit remains primary and the tannins are firm, so readers will need to be patient, but boy, is this a gorgeous bottle. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2028. This is another superb set of wines from Aldo and Milena Vajra. What else is new? I am sure one day the Vajras will receive the broader recognition they so richly deserve. In the meantime, savvy readers know the exceptional quality these wines deliver for what remain very modest prices. Importers: Martin Scott Wines, Little Neck, NY; tel. (516) 327-0808, Rinascimento Wine Company, Los Angeles, CA; tel. (310) 270-3747