Among California’s First Growth Pinots, Hanzell’s ‘04 is marked by a full-bodied, austere density that demands time in the cellar. It’s a very dry, fairly tannic wine, rich in ripe crushed black cherry, red cherry candy, tobacco, cedar and spicebox aromas and flavors that are impeccably balanced. Really defines the terroir of the estate, and should develop well. Best 2010 through 2020.——S.H.(2/1/2008)—— 95