The 2004 Pinot Gris Le Fromenteau offers brown spices, wood smoke, peach and root vegetable aromas. Rich and full in the mouth, mingling parsnip, peach, and pungent spice, it finishes with uncommon vigor and clarity for an Alsace Pinot Gris of over 14% alcohol. (The smoky 2005 version was concentrated, but relatively drying rather inexpressive.) Under the viticultural direction of Jean Meyer’s son-in-law Christopher Ehrhart, this domaine has embraced biodynamic methods. Stylistic sensitivity, concern with cuisine compatibility, a special fondness for that underdog variety Auxerrois, and staggered release of wines continue to distinguish this fine estate, which in recent years has curtailed its negotiant activities. Many of the 2005 wines here were showing considerable reticence, which could represent a phase in their collective evolution. (Due to time constraints, I unfortunately did not have opportunity to taste the complete collective offerings of vintages 2004 and 2005 from this address, but any wine I tasted is referred to in the course of my coverage, even if it is not singled-out for a score.)Importer: Terlato Wines International, Lake Bluff, IL; tel. 847.604.8900

An easy, fresh, elegant wine with flavors of crisp, green fruits, good acidity and very pure fruit flavors. There is just a touch of spice, but the main character of this wine is its delicious, poised fruit. Imported by Paterno Wines International. ——R.V.(2/1/2006)—— 87