The 2004 Brunello di Montalcino Cerretalto is deep and powerful in its smoke, tar, spices, scorched earth and plums. The wine has shut down quite a bit since I last tasted it a few months ago, and the refined silky tannins that were present a while back have turned decidedly virile. Still, the wine’s pedigree is impossible to miss, and the only thing this needs is time, probably lots of it. Pretty scents of soy, smoke and incense inform the long, elegant finish. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2024. Proprietor Giacomo Neri makes some of the richest, most textured Brunellos readers will come across. The house style favors a lush expression of fruit with a softness that makes the wines very appealing upon release. In recent years the wines have become more elegant, with less of the excessive heaviness that characterized prior vintages. Based on what I tasted from barrel, future vintages hold quite a bit of promise as well. This year, readers – especially those on a budget (who isn’t on a budget these days?) should focus on the 2005 Brunello di Montalcino (sometimes also known as the ‘white label’), which is an overachiever because it includes fruit from the Cerretalto vineyard, the source of the estate’s top wine, which was not bottled in 2005.Importer: Dalla Terra, Napa, CA; tel. (707) 259-5405

No doubt, Casanova di Neri shows some of its best work in this decade, starting with the super voluptuous 2001 vintage and ending with the superbly fine and powerful 2010 edition. The 2004 Brunello di Montalcino Cerretalto is closer to the 2001 expression in style and personality. This wine shows deep richness and plumpness with black fruit nuances that segue to exotic spice, bitter chocolate and cured tobacco. Those lingering balsam notes of rosemary and medicinal herb remind you of the Montalcino territory. Smoke, tar, licorice and crushed flint underline the evolved nature of this balanced Tuscan red. If you have a bottle in your cellar, you could drink it now or hold off longer.

Very powerful and rich, with blackberry, licorice and light toasty oak. This has pure fruit. Turns exotic and decadent. Big and full-bodied, with dense, powerful tannins, but velvety and beautiful. Layered and gorgeous. Best from 2011 through 2018. 1,950 cases made, 150 cases imported.??–JS??Region: Italy / Brunello di Montalcino Select to Add