The 2005 Gruner Veltliner Smaragd Achleiten displays a lovely interplay of flowers, white peach, and wet stone both in the nose and on the palate. While it does not offer quite the range of complexity to be garnered from this site at its best, there is great satisfaction and class to be derived here at an affordable price. The gentle but persistent finish is consistently peachy and stony. By comparison, the Smaragd from Kellerberg seemed oddly foursquare and leaden on this occasion. As a group the Freie Weingartner’s 2005 Rieslings displayed less ripeness and more roughness than the Gruner Veltliner, although Frischengruber would like to think that they will smooth out with a bit of time in the bottle. Also recommended: 2005 Gruner Veltliner Steinfeder Terrassen (not available; 84), 2005 Gruner Veltliner Federspiel Terrassen ($11.00; 85), 2005 Gruner Veltliner Federspiel Kollmitz (not available; 84), 2005 Riesling Wachau ($11.00; 85), 2005 Riesling Federspiel Loibenberg (not available; 86).Importer: Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700

Smoky, peppery flavors, minerality and a firm structure all show the poor slate soil of the Achleiten vineyard. Yes, quince and grapefruit flavors are there, but they come through only slightly on this still-young wine.——R.V.(10/1/2006)—— 90