The 2007 Riesling Kabinett (previously reviewed in issue 178) is based on fruit from portions of the Zeltinger Himmelreich, and possesses a (for Kabinett) relatively high 9.5% alcohol. It offers considerable appeal, even if it misses the delicacy or the deft balance that characterize the top Kabinett wines from this estate. Green apple, lime, licorice, and honey are the key themes, and hints of ginger and wet stone add interest to the finish, while persistent citrus helps offset the sweetness. Anyone who cares to hold this wine for 4-5 years will be rewarded with further complexity and can rest assured it will remain refreshing. The Selbach crew did some pre-selection at the end of September, leading directly into a main harvest that lasted until November 10. Johannes Selbach says he often had to find things to keep his crew occupied while waiting for what he judged the optimum moments to pick. After having been through 2006, he was determined to have everything and everybody ready should circumstances suddenly dictate haste, which of course they never did. Selbach was delighted – as a self-proclaimed defender of “true Kabinett” – to have some genuinely light-weight yet intensely-flavored wines this year, and he was the first to acknowledge that not only the prevailing weather but also the abundant crop (even allowing for thinning) helped make ripe-tasting yet relatively low must-weight Riesling possible. He notes that there was relatively little botrytis, and then late. In view of that assessment, I was surprised at the extent to which this year’s Spatlesen evinced evidence of it. As for the dry and nearly-dry wines in this year’s collection, “it’s like a homecoming,” remarks Selbach, “to get back to wines with stuffing but that are sleek, anything but heavy, and inviting of the next sip.” There are a few regional importers of certain Selbach wines, but the majority (and those whose prices are noted above) are Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel (516) 677-9300.

On the dry side. A lively structure drives the apricot, peach and violet aromas and flavors. Very balanced and accessible now, but should age as well. Drink now through 2020. 3,000 cases made.??–BS??Region: Germany / Mosel-Saar-Ruwer Select to Add