One of the biggest whites in terms of alcoholic potency (14.5%) is the 2008 Chardonnay Lolita Ranch. Aromas of caramelized oranges, white peaches and honeysuckle jump from the glass of this light greenish/gold-colored effort. More glycerin and unctuosity make this slightly more controversial given its thickness and richness. Nevertheless, there is zesty acidity and loads of weight and concentration. This is a classic California Chardonnay filled with character as well as personality. It should drink nicely for 5-7 years. The venerable Martinelli winery, one of the iconic families and longtime growers in Sonoma, has turned out another impressive group of wines. Tel. (707) 525-0570; Fax (707) 525-9463