The 2009 Valdegatiles is a single-vineyard Tempranillo, which shows austerity, with reticent aromas of ripe, terse black fruit. It is ripe but not overripe, with notes of plums and spices, fine, sophisticated tannins and good length. Drink 2014-2019. Dominio de Atauta is in the coolest place in Ribera, in Atauta in the province of Soria. The winery was acquired by the Avantselecta group in 2009 and since then there have been a number of changes, including the winemaker. Imported by Aviva Vinos, New York, NY; tel. (212) 244-4495, www.avivavino.com