Elegant reds and whites routinely emerge from Chimney Rock. In fact, those who claim California wines lack finesse and delicacy should check out these offerings. A proprietary blend, the 2002 Elevage offers up an outstanding bouquet of black fruits, licorice, earth, and spice box. Medium-bodied with too clipped a finish to merit an outstanding score, the aromatics, attack, and mid-palate are lovely, but the wine falls short on the palate. Drink it over the next 7-8 years.(Price not yet determined)Tel. (707) 257-2641; Fax (707) 257-2036

If Tchelistcheff were still here, he might describe this Cab as an iron fist in a velvet glove. It’s inviting in rich cassis, blueberry and chocolate flavors, with a soft mouthfeel. But the softness is deceptive; this is a big, deeply structured wine. Drink now through 2012. ——S.H.(12/1/2005)—— 92