The 2003 DAMASCENOS (a.k.a. Damaskinos) is all Xinomavro, meant to be a somewhat more individualistic product in Vaeni’s lineup, ripe and oak-aged and somewhat sedate and modern-styled for Xinomavro. It is quite elegant while still reasonably fresh. Only 12.7% alcohol, it is bright and light, with some nice flavors, the oak not being overly intrusive at this point in its life. Tannins certainly pop out with aeration, but this is a wine that controls Xinomavro’s rustic tendencies. Of the Vaeni red lineup reviewed this issue, it is probably does the best job of retaining some youthful freshness in the fruit while still providing reasonable structure. It shows a bit more mature, with some tertiary hints, after extended aeration. Overall, this has some charm. Drink now-2013. Vaeni Naoussa is a co-op that takes a large part of the Naoussa region’s production. Its focus has traditionally been on Xinomavro, making both white wines (from red grapes) and reds.Importer: Stellar Importing Co., Whitestone, N.Y.; tel: (718) 352-1180