The 2000 Rovitello (Nerello Mascalese and Nerello Cappuccio) is made in an elegant, restrained style. It caresses the palate with an array of tobacco, smoke, spices, and chocolate that complement the sweet ripe fruit. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2012. Benanti is making some of the most compelling wines coming out of Sicily’s re-discovered Mount Etna appellation. These dramatic, old vines are grown on the slopes of the volcano and offer plenty of site-specific character. Most of the wines are made from indigenous varieties although international grapes are used in a few of the reds. I can’t add much more, except to urge readers to discover the extraordinary wines of Benanti.Importer: JA-AR Imports, Ltd., Stellar Cellars, East Brunswick, NJ; tel. (732) 762-9524

Rolling out the hits, Benanti delivers yet another Nerello Mascalese and Nerello Cappuccio blend (80-20%) that tops the charts of Sicilian indigenous reds. You can’t get enough of those polished berry and volcanic notes or of its incredible depth and dimension in the mouth. Aged for one year in oak. Imported by Vino Bravo.——M.L.(7/1/2006)—— 90