The 2004 Etna Rosso Rovitello (Nerello Mascalese, Nerello Cappuccino) is a deeply-colored, intense wine loaded with dark red fruits, spices, earthiness and minerals. The wine shows terrific density and purity which carries all the way through to the long finish. Today this firm, vibrant red remains quite primary and in need of further bottle age, but it should develop beautifully. The Rovitello could easily pass as a first rate Nebbiolo in a blind tasting. This is a gorgeous effort from Benanti. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2016. I can’t think of too many properties in Sicily, or Italy, for that matter, that turn out such a large number of outstanding wines. The family-run Benanti winery is located on the slopes of Mount Etna. These volcanic soils are the source for most of the grapes, although some of the Nero d’Avola comes from Pachino while the Zibibbo is grown on the island of Pantelleria. Readers should do whatever they can to taste these unique wines.Importer: JA-AR Imports, Ltd., Stellar Cellars, East Brunswick, NJ; tel. (732) 762-9524

Rovittello (a traditional blend of Nerello Mascalese and Nerello Cappuccio from Mount Etna) delivers a steady stream of berry flavors followed by spice, clove, vanilla and drying mineral tones. The wine offers tight, polished tannins with uncommon sophistication and elegance that leaves a lasting impression.——M.L.(2/1/2009)—— 90