The Raveneau 2007 Chablis La Foret – whose young vines had very low yields this year, resulting in a high-for-its-vintage 13% natural alcohol – is particularly pungent in its expressions of citrus zest, piquant, iris-like floral perfume, and white pepper. Satisfying richness of white peach and a glossy, silken texture help ameliorate any tendency of the wine’s pronounced pungency to become too aggressive, and a wonderful sense of scallop-like sweet, saline, animal savor emerges on airing, contributing – along with an enhanced impression of liquid floral perfume – to a finish of lasting fascination and memorable distinctiveness. This is by no means a typical 2007, let alone a Chablis distinguished by rectitude. I would plan on monitoring it closely and relishing it relatively early. Bernard Raveneau views his bright, mineral-inflected 2007s – picked from September 10-16 – as potentially richer versions of 2004, since the former, he indicates, have gained in textural allure during their elevage. That also explains why he did not plan to bottle most of these 2007s until late spring or summer, and I have accordingly not tasted them since bottling. (Incidentally, Raveneau is very excited and intrigued by his 2008s, wines with an effusion of floral and herbal youthful aromatics that he says he has never before encountered, but whose finished results he speculated might combine aspects of 2006 and 2007.) Importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel (510) 524-1524