The most seductive but somewhat superficial wine is the 2004 Pinot Noir Westside Road Neighbors, made from the fruit of five nearby vineyards that are blended together. This has a slightly darker color than the previous two wines, with more sweet cherry, damp earth, and underbrush notes. It is medium-bodied, crisp, and best drunk in its first 3-4 years of life. Tel. (707) 433-6425; Fax (707) 433-6546

This is a blend of vineyards from which the winery sources its fruit. It’s a very good wine, dry and crisp, with ripe flavors of cherries, raspberries, root beer and herbs. The texture is silky, the balance impeccable, but it’s a tad thin in the midpalate. ——S.H.(11/1/2006)—— 88