A big wine, the dense opaque ruby/purple-colored, tannic 1997 Barolo Brunate, exhibits copious aromas of cassis, black cherry, kirsch liqueur, licorice, smoke, truffles, and new oak. Notes of coffee and chocolate emerge as the wine sits in the glass. It possesses amazing density, a lot of muscle, and a roasted character to its fruity personality. This backstrapping, full-bodied Barolo requires 4-5 years of cellaring, and should keep for 25. A Leonardo Locascio Selection, Winebow, Hohokus, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620.

A big wine, the dense opaque ruby/purple-colored, tannic 1997 Barolo Brunate, exhibits copious aromas of cassis, black cherry, kirsch liqueur, licorice, smoke, truffles, and new oak. Notes of coffee and chocolate emerge as the wine sits in the glass. It possesses amazing density, a lot of muscle, and a roasted character to its fruity personality. This backstrapping, full-bodied Barolo requires 4-5 years of cellaring, and should keep for 25. A Leonardo Locascio Selection, Winebow, Hohokus, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620.

This remains the legend. Very dark color ruby. Masses of crushed raspberry and blackberry on the nose. Lots of vanilla and violet, as well as hints of tangerine. Full-bodied, with ultrafine tannins and a dense, yet harmonious palate. It has lots going on. Wonderful. Hard not to drink now, but will improve for decades.--1997 Italian blind retrospective. Best after 2018. 275 cases made.??–JS??Region: Italy / Piedmont / Barolo Select to Add