The 2005 Brunello di Montalcino opens with a fabulous, expressive bouquet of freshly cut roses, spices and raspberries, all of which carry through to the palate, where the wine reveals impeccable class and elegance, with just enough fruit to balance its angular, lean structure. Still, the 2005 is surprisingly round and harmonious for a young vintage of Biondi-Santi, in fact, I had a hard time putting the glass down! Though medium in body, the wine offers gorgeous persistence and a long, exceptionally pure finish. I expect the 2005 Brunello to shut down in bottle, but readers who have an opportunity to taste the wine should not hesitate. Biondi-Santi did not produce a Riserva in 2005; instead the best of the fruit that is normally destined for the Riserva plus a selection of old vines near the heart of the estate were used for the 2005 Brunello. This is one of the unqualified successes of the vintage. I was deeply impressed with the wines I tasted from Biondi-Santi this year. Of course, Biondi-Santi is the estate that put Brunello di Montalcino on the map, so it is nice to see this historic property doing so well. These remain some of the most rigorous, age-worthy Brunellos readers will come across. Traditional vinification and aging in large, neutral casks are the rule. Ideally the wines are best left in the cellar for at least a decade after release, but readers will have a very hard time exercising such restraint here. These are magnificent Brunellos. Importer: Shaw-Ross, Miramar, FL; tel. (954) 430-5020

With lots of air, this opens up to a floral, citrusy and fruity red. Full-bodied and chewy, with a slightly hard acidity and a tight, fruity finish. Needs time to open. Best after 2013. 3,290 cases made. -JS

The main aspect that sets Biondi-Santi apart is the delicate nature of its aromas. This is an elegant and feminine Brunello with bright berry nuances, floral notes, wild cherry and cola tones. There are subtle hints of vanilla and spice in the mouth with bright acidity. The 2005 vintage should hold another 10–15 years.——M.L.(8/1/2010)—— 92