Tarry black fruits, herbs, cedar, and mulling spices are found in the nose of the 2000 Cabernet Sauvignon. It is a highly structured, firm wine with flavors of cedar, brambleberries, and blackberries. Its medium to full-bodied character leads to a tannic finish. Drink it over the next 2-3 years before the structure reigns in the fruit. Tel. (509) 525-1428; www.leonetticellar.com

Bursting with fragrant, powerful berries and spice, this wine still shows the edges of youth, with the new oak a bit jagged and the tannins slightly green and chalky. But all it needs is time (or air!) and there is no denying that this is a jammy, juicy, just plain delicious mouthful of wine with a masterful hand at the wheel. ——P.G.(9/1/2003)—— 93