The 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon is blended with 19% Merlot, 3% Cabernet Franc, and 1% Carmenere. Purple-colored, it exhibits a complex nose of smoke, vanilla, pencil lead, olives, licorice, black currants, and blackberry which soars from the glass. Sweet and ripe on the palate, with layers of dark fruit flavors, the wine’s oak, tannin, and acidity are beautifully integrated. The finish lasts for 50+ seconds. Give this Cabernet another 5-7 years in the cellar and drink it through 2035. Tel. (509) 525-1428, www.leonetticellar.com

Though most Walla Walla vineyards got wiped out in 2004, Leonetti was able to keep its best Cabernet from the higher elevation sites. This reflects the tight, somewhat herbal aspect of the vintage, and is still showing a bit of a raw edge to the tannins. But the fruit is sweet and ripe, and the balance impeccable. The flavors mix fresh herb (basil, oregano) and tangy fruit (berry, cherry) with pleasing flashes of leaf and bark. The wine is nervy, compact and refined; the flavors linger and the aromas slowly unwind. This is a wine that I believe will age beautifully.——P.G.(11/1/2007)—— 94