The 1994 Condrieu (made from purchased grapes) is an elegant, fat, rich, honeyed wine with plenty of glycerin, medium to full body, and loads of fresh, lively, peach and apricot fruit. Although it does not possess the intensity and length of La Doriane, it is a very fine Condrieu. When I saw Marcel Guigal last month, he claimed Condrieu is at its best with asparagus, a food that is often difficult to pair with wine. This wine was tasted in September, 1995, from bottle, unless otherwise noted. Prices quoted are based on the current exchange rate of five francs per dollar. Guigal, along with Georges Vernay, is one of the two most important Condrieu producers. This estate has steadily increased their production of Condrieu, and several years ago purchased the 5-acre La Doriane vineyard, adjacent to Chateau Grillet. Guigal did not feel the quality of the 1993 was high enough to merit a vineyard-designated cuvee, so it was blended with his regular Condrieu. Importer: Classic Wines, Boston, MA; tel. (617) 731-6644