Guigal is the undisputed king of Condrieu (as well as Cote Rotie), and his 2007 Condrieu exhibits crisp, tart acids in addition to fresh, lively notes of honeyed apricots, peaches, and lychee nuts. While the entire world of wine knows how profound Guigal’s red wines are, they may not know that he continues to demonstrate a complete mastery of white wine varietals, from his lowly Cotes du Rhone blend of Roussanne, Marsanne, Viognier, Clairette, and Bourboulenc, to his seriously-endowed dry whites from the northern Rhone. There are two cuvees of white Hermitage. The luxury offering, Ex-Voto, comes from five acres of 90-year old Marsanne vines planted in two separate vineyards on Hermitage Hill - l’Ermite and Les Murets. As the following notes indicate, Guigal has set aside a number of barrels that could make up the 2007 Ex-Voto, but he is not yet sure the quality will be high enough as this must be a wine of great richness and complexity.Importer: Fred Ek and Patrick Will, Ex Cellars Wine Agencies, Solvang, CA; tel. (805) 686-9153

Guigal is now making 40-45% of the entire Condrieu appellation, making the quality of this cuvee quite an achievement. Floral notes lead off, followed by hints of peach, apricot and honey, and the wine walks the requisite balance between round lushness and peppery, minerally spice. Drink now-2012.——J.C.(4/1/2010)—— 90