There is no more consistently fine Wachau Gruner Veltliner than Hirtzberger’s best (although one or two others may be its equal) and the 2004 Gruner Veltliner Honivogl, harvested mid and late-November, certainly does not disappoint, although I suspect it is only beginning to show its full potential. Cellar some for a decade and taste for yourself. In the nose, the wine is as yet rather discreet, but fascinating in its subtle lily-like floral and mineral suggestions. The creamy richness on the palate here is typical of Honivogl at its best, but this year accomplished without huge body or high alcohol, making for a wine of clarity and poise. Sickle pear fruit accented by marzipan, nut oil, flowers and wet stone flavors carry into a lingering finish of refinement and complexity. Importer: Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700

Impressive structure and intensity to the ripe peach, apricot and mineral flavors. This is a spicy mix as well, with white pepper, clove and sweet curry notes. Try with Asian cuisines. Drink now through 2010. 35 cases imported.??–KM??Region: Austria / Nieder?sterreich / Wachau Select to Add