Gruner Veltliner is Austria’s own special white—it’s fresh, but peppery, aromatic, spicy and flowery. This example has all those flavors, and is a bargain, too. It comes from one of the world’s great cooperatives. The fruit comes from the terraced vineyards of the Wachau region in the Danube Valley. The term “Federspiel” is used in the Wachau to denote a good everyday wine, and this is exactly that.——R.V.(11/15/2004)—— 87