The 1990 Merlot Toro Desiderio will please Merlot lovers, some of whom may score it even higher. The wine is full-bodied with terrific fruit purity and ripeness. What kept it from receiving an outstanding score was its lack of complexity. Yes, it possesses plenty of jammy fruit, abundant sweet, toasty oak, and a soft, silky, seamless texture, but hard tannin in the finish, and the wine's one-dimensional quality and fruit/oak-driven personality make it excellent rather than exceptional. Already delicious, it should continue to drink well for 10-12 years. Importer: Vias Imports, New York, NY; tel. (212) 629-0200