The estate’s 2007 Cortona Merlot Desiderio is a full throttle, opulent wine laced with jammy blueberries, mint, spices and French oak. Hints of port-like sweetness linger on the finish. The Desiderio is a decidedly extroverted wine, but everything works within the context of this style of winemaking. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2022. Avignonesi is one of the best-known names in Tuscany. Once again, the Vin Santos are the show stoppers. Importer: Dalla Terra, Napa, CA; tel. (707) 259-5405

Desiderio, a legendary Italian Merlot, shows slightly sour aromas this vintage with cherry, pressed flowers, natural rubber and spice. It’s a hearty, well-concentrated wine with loads of density and intense cherry fruit on the close. ——M.L.(2/1/2012)—— 90