The 2006 Cortona Merlot Desiderio is frankly a perplexing wine. There is good density and richness in the ripe dark fruit, but the French oak completely dominates the wine’s balance. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2016. The highlights among these new releases from Avignonesi, not surprisingly, are the Vin Santos, which in 1997 are nothing short of utterly profound. The wines actually benefit from being opened at least several hours prior to being served. As we went to press the Falvo family announced the sale of its remaining 10% holding in the winery to Virginie Saverys, director of Compagnie Maritime Belge, a Belgian shipping company. Ms. Saverys has been a shareholder since 2007. Based on the reds I have tasted here throughout the years there certainly seems to be an opportunity to increase quality in many of the wines. It is hard to imagine any proprietor in their right mind doing anything to touch the Vin Santos, as these remain some of the most profound wines in the world. Importer: Dalla Terra, Napa, CA; tel. (707) 259-5405

Sweet spice aromas of cinnamon and vanilla come at the heels of bright berry fruit and cherries. This is a plush, modern Merlot (with 15% Cabernet Sauvignon for extra texture and dimension) that offers well-integrated layers of fruit and oak spice. The mouthfeel is round, soft and long-lasting.——M.L.(3/1/2010)—— 93