Singed mirabelle and quince tart dusted with cinnamon is distinctively suggested in the nose of Trimbach’s 2009 Riesling Cuvee Frederic Emile Vendange Tardive, and on the palate it’s as though this fruit pastry with its smoky and tart edges opened to reveal rich vanilla custard, resulting in a fascinating counterpoint. An ample supply of glycerin as well as ripe fruit acid help renders this long-finishing Riesling of 50 grams residual sugar both alluringly rich yet vibrant, and by no means superficially sweet. It represents essentially what was left after the healthiest fruit in the Osterberg and Gaisberg had been picked-out for the “regular” Frederic Emile. Look for at least 20 years of satisfaction. “The oenologists were saying in 2009 ‘Oh we have to get approval so that we can add acidity,’ but it was absolutely unnecessary, for us,” notes Pierre Trimbach, who indeed delivered a surprisingly animated collection, albeit one diminished in size by instances of declassification. The Trimbachs compare their 2008s with 1998, adding that there is something of 2001 to them, too. As a group, they are going to further the reputation of wines from this family for rewarding patience.Importer: Diageo Chateau and Estate Wines Company, New York, NY; tel. (212) 419-1400