2003 was "a freaking hot year," says winemaker Gary Horner. "We harvested at 80 degrees." Medium garnet in color, the 2003 Pinot Noir Leland Vineyard is fully mature with aromas of dried red and black cherries, sautéed mushroom, leather, scorched earth, pipe tobacco, graphite and bitter chocolate. The palate is fully tertiary but livelier and fresher than expected, still retaining some fruitiness. This has held well, but if you have any in your cellar, it's time to drink up.