The 2004 ALICANTE BOUSCHET is nicely structured, with grip on the finish, and good support. The fruit has some gamey notes. Often, this varietal makes me think of candied cherries, but the gamey notes and the structure give it some character here. Its bright finish drives home the fruit flavors. The mid-palate is medium weight, and the wine has an elegant feel, despite the obvious tannins. This is a nice effort. Drink now-2012.Esporao is one of Alentejo’s iconic producers, with vast vineyards (some 650 hectares) that partly have some age on them (some vines are around thirty years old, considerable relative to the many young wineries in the region). It has some of the region’s most beautiful and atmospheric cellars. Its lineup tends to be value oriented, and the winery excels in producing nice wines for little money, sometimes to the point where you wonder why you should step up. Its winemaker, Australian David Baverstock, is a long time resident in Portugal who has assisted many prominent wineries in the Douro as well.Importers: Aidil Wines & Liquors, a division of Olde World Imports, Inc., Rahway, NJ; tel. (973) 642-0044; Vinum Importing, Redmond, WA; tel. (206) 621-8843.