The 2006 Barbera d’Alba Bricco dei Merli is another super-refined effort. This is a Barbera of notable pedigree, with layers of dark fruit, licorice, tar and toasted oak that emerge from the glass. Only a small drop-off in intensity on the mid-palate keeps the score from going higher. The Barbera spent 12 months in French oak barrels, 40% of which were new. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2012. Cogno remains an under-the-radar source for delicious wines. This is an impressive line-up from top to bottom. Importer: Vias Imports, New York, NY; tel. (212) 629-0200