Cogno shows an expert hand with the 2011 Barbera d’Alba Bricco dei Merli. The wine opens with an inky dark appearance and none of the nervous edginess you sometimes find with this grape. Black cherry, tar, dried rosemary and fresh tobacco leaf make for a very enjoyable succession. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2016. A visit to the cellars of Elvio Cogno is always a fascinating learning experience. I had my first taste of a beautifully fresh and fragrant white wine made with the Nascetta grape here a few years ago. The variety was new to many of us then, but thanks to vintner Valter Fissore and his wife Nadia Cogno it is strongly identified with the territory today. More recently, the couple started to produce limited cases of Barbera d’Alba made from pre-phylloxera vines (most more than a century old). That they were able to tap into that ancient genetic patrimony in this well-trodden part of Italy is something of a small miracle. They are also credited with putting the little-known Novello township on the Barolo map. Importer: Imported by Elvio Cogno, Suasalito, CA; tel. (917) 699-2647

Pure, showing blackberry, raspberry, black pepper and tobacco flavors. Balanced on the astringent side, with a slightly rustic finish. Best from 2015 through 2022. 900 cases made.??–BS??Region: Italy / Piedmont / Barbera d'Alba Select to Add