The 2009 Barbera d’Alba Bricco dei Merli bursts from the glass with a rush of dark red fruit, flowers and spices. It shows fabulous mid-palate juiciness in a supple, inviting style that is immensely appealing. Sweet floral notes reappear on the finish. This is first class juice all the way. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2017. Walter Fissore and Nadia Cogno continue to do fabulous work. Cogno is one of the very finest estates in Piedmont, yet somehow remains under the radar. Every wine I tasted this year was brilliant, but the Baroli in particular are magnificent. The wines are made in a fairly traditional style, which means they need bottle age, even at the entry-level. Native yeasts, lengthy submerged-cap macerations, and a reliance on large, neutral oak casks for the top Baroli are the rule. Importer: Vias Imports, New York, NY; tel. (212) 629-0200

This plush, darkly colored red is laced with blackberry and black currant flavors. Ambitious, meeting the challenge with fine balance and good grip on the lingering finish. Drink now through 2015. 200 cases imported.??–BS??Region: Italy / Piedmont / Barbera d'Alba Select to Add