The 1953 Clos Vougeot Grand Cru does not possess the freshness or the joie-de-vivre that distinguishes the 1959. Nevertheless, the bouquet is still vital with floral scents intertwined with the remnants of fruit that are slight darker than the aforementioned ‘59. There is something animally about this bottle, touches of mint developing toward the dense finish, but just missing that finesse and composure. Still, very fine. Drink now. In February, Pierre-Antoine Rovani and Bernard Repolt trekked over to London to present a range of both recent and older vintages for their UK importer, Averys. If anyone needed convincing that Remoissenet can truly deliver at the top level, then one needs go no further than the stupendous Charmes-Chambertin 2011 that is among the best I have encountered with respect to that vintage. Perhaps with such a large portfolio of crus, gems likes these can get lost in the flurry of reviews, but they can only serve to enhance their reputation among Burgundy cognoscenti. Importers: Simon N Cellars, Charlottesville, VA; tel. (434) 977-4476, Bertin Henri Selections, Doral, FL; tel. (305) 392 6995, Cavatappi Distribuzione, Seattle, WA; tel. (206) 292 5226, Dark Star Imports, New York, NY; tel. (646) 312 8921, Arborway Imports, Lexington, MA; tel. (781) 862-0515, United Wine and Spirits, Houston, TX; tel. (713) 696-9463, D.G.L. Distributors, Northbrook, IL; tel. (847) 291- 1110, The Sorting Table, Napa, CA; tel. (707) 603-1460. Also available through Avery’s Wine Merchants in Bristol (UK).