Pierre Rovani waxed lyrical about the 1978 Clos Vougeot Grand Cru, but we will have to agree to disagree. It has a simple nose that lacks the fruite of the 1985. The palate is marked by light tannins, the fruit marked by a metallic edge that is rather off-putting. I would have expected more from such a propitious vintage and I would drink any bottles sooner rather than later (unless you are Pierre Rovani.) Drink now. In February, Pierre-Antoine Rovani and Bernard Repolt trekked over to London to present a range of both recent and older vintages for their UK importer, Averys. If anyone needed convincing that Remoissenet can truly deliver at the top level, then one needs go no further than the stupendous Charmes-Chambertin 2011 that is among the best I have encountered with respect to that vintage. Perhaps with such a large portfolio of crus, gems likes these can get lost in the flurry of reviews, but they can only serve to enhance their reputation among Burgundy cognoscenti. Importers: Simon N Cellars, Charlottesville, VA; tel. (434) 977-4476, Bertin Henri Selections, Doral, FL; tel. (305) 392 6995, Cavatappi Distribuzione, Seattle, WA; tel. (206) 292 5226, Dark Star Imports, New York, NY; tel. (646) 312 8921, Arborway Imports, Lexington, MA; tel. (781) 862-0515, United Wine and Spirits, Houston, TX; tel. (713) 696-9463, D.G.L. Distributors, Northbrook, IL; tel. (847) 291- 1110, The Sorting Table, Napa, CA; tel. (707) 603-1460. Also available through Avery’s Wine Merchants in Bristol (UK).