The four barrels’ worth of Remoissenet 2007 Clos Vougeot represent their first such estate-bottled wine. Blackberry, black pepper, kelp, and peat on the nose lead to a densely concentrated amalgam of black fruits and roasted meats, with alkaline, stony undertone, and a finish of impressive vibrancy of fresh fruit and mineral pungency. It will genuinely repay up to 10-12 years in the cellar, and predict that this will prove unusual in the context of the vintage. Remoissenet owns a significant share of Pinot Noir acreage in both Cotes, to which they will be adding, in contrast to their circumstances with Chardonnay, wherein their control over a large share of Montrachet is unique, and represents the bargaining chip employed to acquire fruit or young wines as a negociant. (For further details on the “new Remoissenet” begun in 2006, its evolution and its personnel, please consult my report on their 2007 vintage whites in issue 189.) The low yields and late harvest to which the team here pledges allegiance has led to two impressive collections. With regard to my speculations concerning longevity, bear in mind that no track record has yet been established under the current regime, the upbringing of pre-2006 wines under the Remoissenet label being utterly irrelevant. Importers: Bertin Henri Selections, Doral, FL; tel. (305) 392 6995, Cavatappi Distribuzione, Seattle, WA; tel. (206) 292 5226, Dark Star Imports, New York, NY; tel. (646) 312 8921, Simon N Cellars, Charlottesville, VA; tel. (434) 977-4476.