In all likelihood, the 1991 Chardonnay-Gauer Vineyard-Upper Barn has already been gobbled up by knowledgeable insiders. However, when I visited the superb Napa Valley restaurant, Tra Vigne, it was on their wine list. Astonishing as it may sound, it reminded me of a great Batard-Montrachet from the likes of Michel Niellon or Amiot-Bonfils. Marcassin's 1991 is loaded with exceptional honeyed, smoky, buttery, tangerine-like fruitiness in its nose and flavors. Full-bodied, with a creamy texture, and remarkable purity and focus, this is a winemaking tour de force! Of the six bottles I purchased, only one remains, so it is unlikely I will ever know if it is still delicious at age five or six. Along with Au Bon Climat, Calera, Kistler, Newton, Sanford, Robert Talbott, and Williams-Selyem, Marcassin is producing California's most riveting Chardonnays. The jury is still out on the question of their aging potential, but the matter is academic given how extraordinarily complex, rich, and well-balanced the Marcassin Chardonnays can be.