The 2004 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva (from vines in Podernovone) is a magnificent wine. Super-ripe, racy dark raspberries, flowers and sweet spices emerge from this impeccably balanced Brunello. In 2004 the Riserva reveals gorgeous transparency and clarity to match the generous fruit. The wine’s inner sweetness, richness and depth are all first-rate, while the firm tannins convey an impression of elegant classicism. The 2004 Riserva shuts down quickly in the glass but the fruit is so primary the wine should have no trouble aging. Regrettably, I never met Gianni Brunelli and tasting his 2004 Riserva makes me doubly sorry for that. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2024. These are two exceptional Brunellos from the late Gianni Brunelli and his estate, Le Chiuse di Sotto. Readers who enjoy traditionally made Brunellos will find much to admire here.Importer: A.I. Selections, Astoria, NY; tel. (718) 777-2243

This Brunello shows some attractive citrus and plum character, and cedar too, but it turns a little lean and short on the finish. There may be a little too much new wood in the maturation. Best after 2010. 665 cases made. -JS