Cowhorn Vineyard & Winery is a new enterprise in southern Oregon’s Applegate Valley. The vineyard is already certified biodynamic, and the first releases show confidence and control throughout. This elegant Viognier was fermented with native yeast and did not go through malolactic. It mixes melon, peaches, pineapple and lime, and it’s rich without being heavy or hot.——P.G.(4/1/2010)—— 88