With 43 grams of residual sugar, it was inevitable that the Mann 2008 Pinot Gris Hengst would taste unabashedly sweet, even with acidity that is only slightly less extreme for this grape variety than that found in the corresponding Rosenberg and Furstentum. White truffle, liver pate, peach, and orange intrigue the nose; then perform on a surprisingly glycerin-rich yet palpably chalky palate, with fresh orange offering juicy persistence. Hints of caramel and honey are reinforced by the wine’s sweetness and at least in this youthful phase come off as slightly at odds with its Riesling-like brightness. Still, this multi-faceted, muscular, vibrant Pinot Gris should become more harmonious in a few years and have 15-20 years of health ahead of it, time enough for its overt sense of sweetness to back-off, allowing it, I predict, to be more adaptable at table. Although Maurice and Jacky Barthelme continued to pick their 2009 Rieslings into October and achieved satisfyingly ripe flavors, they did so without suffering high alcohol or unbalanced sweetness. Unsurprisingly (whether or not verifiably), they implicate the accumulated experience and effects of a biodynamic regimen in these results. Equally importantly, the levels of acidity in their 2009 Rieslings are ample and efficacious. With Pinot Gris and Gewurztraminer, they were forced to discharge high must weights in the form of almost universally high residual sugar, with attractive if seldom distinguished results. The Mann 2008s are characterized by particularly concentrated and positively efficacious acidity, all of the Rieslings weighing-in at what on paper might look like an excessive 9 grams or more. Not only have the Barthelme brothers been together now for 21 vintages – to me it still seems like yesterday that I “discovered” their 1988s – but they point out that most of their present crew has been together for nearly a decade, which is bound to have been instrumental in their having been able to repeatedly expand into new vineyards without sacrificing the highest standards, not to mention with their enthusiasm still youthful.Importer: Weygandt-Metzler, Unionville, PA; tel. (610) 486-0800