In the confusing world of Burgundy's domaine names, there are many with the family name Gagnard (i.e, Gagnard-Delagrange, Blaine-Gagnard). This estate, owned by Richard Fontaine, is considered to be the finest of the Gagnard-named domaines. These 1992s are knock-out white burgundies. Among the premier crus, the rich 1992 Chassagne-Montrachet-La Grande Montagne is oily and fat. Not exhibiting the complexity and definition of the other premier crus, it is a lusty, alcoholic, voluptuously-textured mouthful of Chardonnay. If it does not begin to reveal more structure, I would opt for drinking it over the near term. Importer: William Grant & Sons, Edison, NJ.