The 2005 RESERVA is a blend of Aragonez, Trincadeira and Cabernet Sauvignon, aged for one year in American oak barrels. It is lush and rather oak-dominated on first impression. As with most of Esporao’s Reservas, keep in mind that it is really a value priced wine, not a top of the line product. As such, its mid-palate always tends to be on the elegant side, and it does not have the depth of top of the line wines as a rule. That said, it is always elegant and charming, has good structure, some ability to age and delicious flavors. So, too, here. Once past the oak overlay, it shows very well, handles its 14.5% alcohol very well and is quite delicious. It does not seem quite as stern as the 2004 was at a similar point in time. Drink now-2014. This old stalwart in Alentejo provides some of the best buys in Portugal. Its current lineup is notable for the number of fine values, even with the continuing problems with exchange rates (many of these prices may have been set before the recent resurgence of the dollar). Sometimes, the big question here is simply why you should bother to trade up to their more expensive wines.Importers: Aidil Wines & Liquors, a division of Olde World Imports, Inc., Rahway, NJ; tel. (973) 642-0044; for Washington and Oregon only: Vinum Importing, Redmond, WA; tel. (206) 621-8843

A rich, smooth wine that wears its ripeness and opulence with grace. The structure is all there, a dry center that supports the blackberry jelly and sweet fruits, as well as acidity, a vivid freshness that acts as a foil to all the rich, meaty flavors. ——R.V.(11/1/2008)—— 91