The 1997 Chardonnay Cuvee Indigene (named so because it is fermented completely with indigenous vineyard yeasts) exhibits a light gold color, and a complex nose of smoky, leesy Chardonnay fruit intermixed with smoky, roasted hazelnuts, orange blossoms, and citrus. Full-bodied, with excellent underlying acidity, and more minerality to its flavors than Mon Plaisir, this profoundly concentrated, complex Chardonnay is a prodigious offering. Production was 550 cases, with the alcohol a boisterous 14.1%. Look for this wine to drink well for 5-7 years. The 1997's are leesy, complex, full-bodied, unfiltered Chardonnays. The wines had been bottled in August, yet were singing at high volume when I tasted it in September. This brilliantly run winery continues to push the quality of their wines to even more remarkable heights. Tel. (707) 942-4459; Fax (707) 942-0209. Release date 9/99.