Citrus zest, fruit pit, huckleberry, and white pepper lend Trimbach’s 2009 Riesling Cuvee Frederic Emile an aromatic piquancy and tactile bite that – allied to an oily texture – might pull a bit too much in a bitter direction were it not for a satisfying and far from vintage-typical abundance of exuberantly juicy lime, tangerine, and kiwi. A high-toned aura of pit fruit distillate hovers over the entire performance. Crushed stone and alkaline mineral notes add depth to an invigoratingly and tenaciously lingering finish. This ought to perform admirably in the classic Frederic Emile role for at least 12-15 years. (Incidentally, it’s bone dry, at 13.5% alcohol.) “The oenologists were saying in 2009 ‘Oh we have to get approval so that we can add acidity,’ but it was absolutely unnecessary, for us,” notes Pierre Trimbach, who indeed delivered a surprisingly animated collection, albeit one diminished in size by instances of declassification. The Trimbachs compare their 2008s with 1998, adding that there is something of 2001 to them, too. As a group, they are going to further the reputation of wines from this family for rewarding patience.Importer: Diageo Chateau and Estate Wines Company, New York, NY; tel. (212) 419-1400