Georges Vernay, who had to relinquish the title of "Mr. Condrieu" to Marcel Guigal, since the latter proprietor now produces more Condrieu than anyone else, has fashioned three solid efforts in the difficult 1996 vintage. The richest of Vernay's three cuvees is the 1996 Condrieu Les Chaillees de l'Enfer. It is an outstanding, medium-bodied, lusciously-styled Condrieu with copious quantities of honeysuckle and peach-like fruit. All of the 1996s from Vernay exhibit more of a grapefruit character than is normally found in these wines. It appears that in vintages where there are immature flavors, these Condrieus possess an apricot and peach-like fruit, whereas in years of less ripeness, there is more of a honeyed citrus and grapefruit-like personality. Certainly the biggest, richest, and more intense of these three wines is Les Chaillees de l'Enfer. It should drink well for 2-3 years. Importer: A Christopher Cannan Selection, Europvin USA, Watertown, MA; tel. (617) 924-7620