The 1962 Unico offers an ethereal, complex perfume leading to an elegant, spicy, dowager of a wine that is a bit dry in the finish. Bodegas Vega Sicilia remains a benchmark for the world’s great red wines. The Valbuena bottling receives 3 years in barrel and 2 years in bottle prior to release. On the occasion of my visit in May 2010, the three Reserva Especials already in bottle and awaiting release were tasted side by side. They are identified (for the purposes of this review only) as the 2013 Release, the 2012 Release, and the 2011 Release. I was not told what vintages are in each bottling but it actually makes little difference. The Reserva Especials are blended to a house style designed to reflect Vega Sicilia at its very best. The vagaries of vintage (as reflected in Unico) are blended away leaving a wine that is, in my opinion, better than any of the single vintage wines with the possible exception of the 1942.Importer: Christopher Cannan, Europvin; www.europvin.com

Still lively, with mellow texture and a core of plum flavor surrounded by clove and vanilla scents. Still veiled by a bit more tannin than even more recent vintages, giving it a grip on the finish. Drink now. -