The team here set out to make the estate’s first-ever Laurentiuslay T.B.A. by dint of early, berry-by-berry selection. The resulting 2005 Leiwener Laurentiuslay Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese offers a breathtakingly intense nose of orange liqueur, apricot jam, herbal and floral distillates, and brown spices. In the mouth it offers amazing lightness of touch despite its viscosity and vivacious, refreshing acidity despite its origin in botrytized berries. A vanilla cream character wells up on the palate, offering a nice counterpoint to the bright suggestions of citrus on display. Liqueur-like and candified intensity of apricot and orange, floral, fruit and spice complexity, and mouthwatering acidity follow this wine through to its magnificently multi-layered finish.The team here – cellarmaster Rudi Hoffmann, vineyard manager Hermann Jostock, and proprietor Nik Weis – continued their streak of highly successful harvests this year, albeit at the price of extremely low yields.Importer: H. B. Wine Merchants, New York, NY; tel. (917) 402-0456