From mature vines in the Clos, the 2005 Gewurztraminer Cuvee Theo smells pungently spicy and herbal, offers sultry richness and rose petal perfume on the palate nicely complimented by an invigorating salinity, and finishes with satisfying, subtly sweet length. As with the corresponding Rieslings, the Theo is richer but at least for now the Reserve Personnelle more charming. The dynamic trio of Fallers continues to bottle some of France’s (hardly just Alsace’s) richest and most flamboyant wines. Beginning with 2005, all of their vineyards are being biodynamically farmed. Laurence Faller finds their 2005s in general “more focused and clear” (this was especially true of Riesling) despite their often prominent botrytis component, and the 2004s richer. I suppose it goes without saying, but one has to carefully scrutinize each Weinbach label, so numerous are the cuvees. And as wonderful as is the distinctiveness exhibited by the vast majority of wines here, even a geek like yours truly could be forgiven for asking whether somewhat fewer different bottlings might benefit consumers as well as journalists!Importer: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel. (205) 980-8802